San Francisco: where to stay and getting around

Let's start by me saying that when I planned to visit SF, I didn't sufficiently plan the visit. If your idea of a trip to San Fran is a drive over the Golden Gate Bridge and a trip to Alcatraz than think again. It has so much more to offer.

But it does remain on my list of places to visit (again) because my last stay was insufficient due to lack of planning and lack of time. So if you're planning to visit San Francisco, please learn from my mistakes and allow at least four days to experience all it has to offer.

I will post more on my specific visit and recommendations at a later date because I want to stick to the purpose of this article. 

Accommodation:

Most of the main attractions are situated north of the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge along the pier. Unless you're hiring a car or intend on making taxi companies rich than you'll be relying on public transport to visit the sites.

You cannot go wrong staying somewhere within the vicinity between Powell Street and Drumm Street, staying close to the subway line that runs along Market Street.

This area is close to the subway, bus stops and the S.F Ferry Building. You'll need to utilise a combination of all three transport systems to get the most out of your stay. There are a number of hotels in this area to suit every budget and its not short of restaurants to suit varying tastes and appetites.

Getting from the Airport to accommodation:
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) is connected to the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) system. If you're wondering what that means, it's just an eloquent and exaggerated term for subway.

The yellow BART line runs from SFO all the way to downtown SF and through to Oakland (if you feel like living on the edge). If you're taking my advice on accommodation, then Powell Street, Montgomery Street or Embarcadero are the stops for you.

For an up to date schedule of departure times, please click here.

Getting around:
There are a number of public transport companies operating within San Francisco:

• SFMTA - operates the street cars, ferry service and bus lines (system map)
• Golden Gate Transot (GGT) - operates bus and ferry service  (system map)
• BART - subway (system map)
• Hornblower Alcatraz cruises - official tour provider and transport for Alcatraz Island (website)

Normally I would provide a list of which service you use and their schedules to get to which attractions but Transit 511 does it so well I would only be re-inventing the wheel.

Click on the system maps first for different transport providers to get an understanding of what service runs where (for example GGT line 92 goes across the Golden Gate Bridge) and then utilise Transit 511 to get up to date schedules on all services.

Las Vegas: The real Happiest Place on Earth

There is no real secret to enjoying Vegas. It's in your face whether you like it or not, from gambling to shopping to shows and to all types of debauchery, it's got you covered.


Accommodation:
I stayed at Harrah's Casino. For two reasons. One: price. It is the lesser known of all the big casinos such as MGM, Bellagio, Venetian, Caesars and Luxor's etc etc. It still comes with all the amenities to have a very comfortable stay, admittedly I didn't stay in the penthouse so if you're after that type of experience seek further advice.

The second reason is the most important and consistent with the reason I choose any accommodation: location. For anyone who is unfamiliar with the layout of Las Vegas, the biggest attractions are located on the South Las Vegas Blvd strip, aka the Strip.

Harrah's is located on the Strip, smack bang in the middle of all the other main attractions. MGM Grand, Fountains of Bellagio, Pyramid of Luxor, Eiffel tower...just walk south.

The shopping centre's, Stratosphere, Circus Circus, The Venetian...just walk north. If you're thinking I left off Caesar's, don't despair. Just cross the road and you're there.

If walking isn't your thing, there is a monorail attached to Harrah's which has several stops, going as far south as the MGM Grand and as far north as the Sahara (or at least where the Sahara was).


Getting to accommodation/the Strip:
For those who are flying you will arrive at the McCarran International Airport.

There are no railway lines to the strip. However a number of bus and shuttle bus operations run out of all the terminals, click here for options and information.

I went by taxi, the Strip is not too far from the airport. Do not be deterred by long lines to get a taxi, the airport staff are quite efficient at getting people away quite quickly. Taxi from the airport to Harrah's was $US15 (inclusive of tip).

No lack of signage in Las Vegas.

Tips:
Beat the crowds: The week before and leading up to Christmas / Hanukkah, most performers have their holiday break. The entertainment is light, but so are the crowds.

Gambling: I dabbled in Texas Hold Em' mostly. Casinos offer certain specials to entice you to gamble at their casino (e.g. pocket Aces and still lose the pot win $500 from casino). Casino's either have specials advertised within or just ask staff.

Drinking: In most major casinos if you're gambling, drinks are either free or heavily reduced, but have to be ordered through waitstaff. The bigger the tip to waitstaff, the more frequent and quicker they will be taking your orders.

Recommendation 1: Thrill rides at the Stratosphere.

Recommendation 2: Day trip to Hoover's Dam/Grand Canyon. Organise with your hotel or check out options on Viator.

Hoover Dam and Eagle Rock at the Grand Canyon on a day tour fromVegas

Naples: the quest to find the perfect pizza

Tips for visiting Naples:

One: I used Naples as a base for visiting nearby Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. If you want to, and if you have the time (and budget) to do so - I recommend staying at some of the wonderful villages around the Amalfi Coast.

Two: I only dedicated four days to Naples, if I had my time over I'd extend it one more day to allow a visit to Capri.

Accommodation:

Naples is a city of contrast. Near Toledo and towards the wharf, Naples is a somewhat clean and modern city with luxurious accommodation options. Walking back towards central Naples and it is almost as if you can cut a line across town and enter the dirty, rustic and rough Naples. 

Our accommodation. The door within the door.

It's all a matter of personal choice. But if you were contemplating visiting Naples in the first place, then your heart should be leaning towards the rough and authentic Naples that it is known and loved for.

I utilised airbnb.com and stayed within the heart of 'Spaccanapoli', famous for its markets, restaurants and cafes.

If you intend to stay in this part of town, taxis will take you most of the way from Napoli Centrale train station for about 10-15 euro. I preferred walking from the train station, which took about forty minutes to get to Spaccanapoli (Googlemaps told me twenty minutes, I guess they don't take into account carrying 20kg of luggage whilst walking). 

Do not be disheartened, the view along the way is far from boring and there is always something tasty to eat if feeling famished.

Neapolitan Pizza:

The most important thing to remember about pizza in Naples is that it is a serious, serious thing. A lot of pizzerias only recognise two toppings: Marinara and Margherita. 

Whilst walking around Naples, you may see the following sign fixed to some pizzerias:

Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana or  True Neapolitan Pizza Association, commonly known as pizza Nazis.

To receive this certification, pizzas have to have certain ingredients (buffalo mozzarella for one) and cooked to certain ways (i.e. no rolling pin and specific temperatures).

Definitely try one of these certified pizzerias, but don't limit yourself to them. Some of the best pizzerias in Naples are not certified.

If you care for more on the subject, I found the following article an interesting read.

Recommended Pizzerias:

Margherita Pizza from Gino's

Gino's Sorbillo - does a great Margherita plus various other toppings as well. A popular haunt for locals and was also one of the most recommended by everyone I came across.

Pizzeria I Decumani - just a few stores down from Gino's, great variety of pizzas and nice restaurant to sit and dine (which is not always a given in Naples).

Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba - the world's first pizzeria. I don't know if this fact has been forgotten, because it wasn't crowded as I expected it would be. Fantastic pizza, no sitting room. Grab you pizza and find a courtyard nearby.

Pizzeria Brandi - where the Margherita was born. The pizza is good. The place is crowded. But definitely worth the novelty value.

Ristorante Alba - a bit out of the way and more upmarket. Pizzas use dairy mozzarella and are fantastic. They also run pizza making classes.

L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele - the king of the Margherita and Marinara pizza. Which is all they make. Expect greatness.

Naples' sweet bitter secret:

Now pay attention, because this is a grand assertion I am about to make. I travelled through nine cities during my tour of Italy and drunk my weight in coffee in each and every single one. The best coffee I tasted in all of Italy was in Naples. The best pastries I ate in Italy was in Naples. And it was all from one cafe.

Gran Caffe' Ciorfito Sas is located in Spaccanapoli and has some of the most amazing pastries you could ever think to eat in your lifetime. Did I also mention the coffee is pretty good too?

Rome: My visit to the Eternal City (Day 3)

This was my last day in Rome before boarding a train on to Naples.

I booked a tour for the Colosseum and Roman Forums with Dark Rome (City Wonders).

The Colosseum (map) is only a ten minute walk from my accommodation but if you opt for public transportation, the Colosseo subway station is within close vicinity.

The tour started at 8:30am and included skip the line entry, underground access and arena floor access. It is significantly more expensive as opposed to a basic tour but ultimately worth it.

The tour guide for my tour was a historian whose knowledge and insights into ancient Rome was most impressive.

Standing on the arena floor where many a gladiator once stood was a spine tingling moment and another highlight of my trip.

About an hour was dedicated to the Roman Forums (map), it serves as a great introductory guide. Julius Caesar's cremation site, the temples of the Roman Gods and the Roman Senate amongst many things covered in the tour.

However for the history buffs, I would recommend staying behind after the tour ends (which you are given the opportunity to do) and exploring a lot more. You could easily spend another four or five hours exploring the Roman Forums.

I stayed for about another hour, but that was more to do with time constraints than willingness to leave.

After that, it was time to say goodbye to Rome and off to birth place of Pizza.

Rome: My visit to the Eternal City (Day 2)

An early start for the day to make sure I got a view of the sunrise over Rome.

If the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps are on your 'must-see' list but the experience of being crammed into a small place like sardines is not, than I highly recommend visiting both places early morning.

If you want to go one step further, I recommend visiting on a Sunday morning. The logic being that most locals are going to church or the tourists/party-goers will be late risers from a big Saturday night.

Trevi Fountain

I walked to the Trevi Fountain (map) first, which was about a ten minute walk from my accommodation. There were only three other persons when I arrived (about 7:00am) and I could hear the fountain before laying eyes on it.

My wife to the right, sitting alone and enjoying the view

Photo opportunities, coin tossing and simply enjoying the views took up about half an hour.

Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps (map) are a ten minute walk from the Trevi Fountain, walking to Piazza di Spagna will take you to the bottom of the steps which I recommend as the best way to approach the Spanish Steps.

Unfortunately the fountain (Fountain of the Old Boat/Fontana della Barcaccia) at the bottom of the steps was under restoration at the time of my visit. When I arrived there was only one other person at the Spanish Steps, besides a few fitness junkies who utilised the steps as part of their jogging route.

Having the Spanish Steps to myself was one of the highlights of the trip. Nothing like re-enacting a scene from Rocky by running up the steps. The view from the top is quite amazing, with a great view of the dome of St Peter's Basilica.

Re-enacting Rocky

The view from the top

For poetry lovers, the house where John Keats lived and saw out the last of his days is located at the bottom right (facing toward the steps) and is now set up as a memorial house.

Tip 1: If you're going to visit early morning on a Sunday, make sure you have bring something to eat or have a bite before leaving. Most cafes will not be open until late morning. 

Capuchin Crypts

The Capuchin Crypts (map) open from 9am until 7pm everyday.

For entry and service costs visit their website (scroll to the bottom for English).

There are tours offered, some offering 'skip the line' privileges. I personally don't think it necessary, I was able to gain entry straight away (bearing in mind I visited when it opened at 9am and not during peak tourist season). The audio guide offered was sufficient and informative.

Tip 2: The Capuchin Crypts, Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain are all located within close vicinity from one another. If you plan on visiting all three, I recommend visiting them one after another to make the most out of your time.

After the Crypts I returned to my accommodation before setting out to view one of Michelangelo's greatest works of art.

St Peter in Chains Basilica:

The namesake of this basilica comes from one of the two treasures it houses. San Pietro in Vincoli Basilica (map) was built approximately in the 5th century (it has undergone several restorations since), it is the home to the chains that imprisoned Saint Peter when he was jailed in Jerusalem and Michelangelo's statue of Moses.

Whether you believe the authenticity of the chains or not, it makes for an interesting story regardless. The real attraction in this authors humble opinion, is the statue of Moses.

Statue of Moses

What is more astounding is that to view the statue: you do not have to pay any entry fee, you are free to take photographs of the statue and you don't have the swarm of tourists/admirers to deal with. This is in stark contrast of trying to get a view of the statue of David.

Opening hours are 7am - 12:30pm and re-opens 3:30pm - 7pm (6pm in Autumn/Winter)

Entry price is free as previously mentioned.

For those interested in the history and architecture, this page makes for an informative read.

Tip 3: The walking route to getting to the Basilica involved walking along a lot of backstreets. Within reason, do not be deterred by these small alleyways. Through the mazes contains some of the best cafes and restaurants that Rome has to offer, often the small alleyways open up to amazing open courtyards as well.

Food recommendation: During the walk to St Peter in Chains I happened to stumble on a quaint little chocolate store, La bottega del Cioccolato (map). If you're in the area I recommend a visit, amongst the best chocolate I have tasted. The shop owner doesn't speak English, if you don't know Italian than pointing and indicating will see to a successful transaction.

Pantheon - bigger than I had imagined

Pantheon 

Cafe breaks in between, the next stop was the Pantheon (map). 

The Pantheon is open from 8:30am to 7:30pm. Entry is free.

I completely botched my visit, by the time I arrived (about 1pm) the Pantheon was closed for a special mass for several hours and was crowded in the courtyard outside.

If I had my time over again I would have made it a morning visit.

Piazza Navona

A large open courtyard built on the ancient site of Stadium Domitian, the main attractions of Piazza Navona (map) include:

• Fountain of Neptune (northern end)
• Fountain of the Four Rivers (central)
• Moor Fountain (southern end)
• Saint Agnes in Agone

It is also home to a large concentration of tourist traps (overpriced restaurants and merchandise stands). 

Personally, it did not appeal to me. It was over crowed and too touristy for my liking. But if you feel the need to tick it off the list, a short visit will suffice.

Food recommendation: Following on from Tip 3, I stumbled upon Casa Coppelle (map). They specialise in Roman cuisine, the price could be considered to be expensive however you do receive quality for money. A short walk from there is arguably the most popular gelato store in all of Rome - Giolitti (map).

In the afternoon I ended up walking back past the Trevi Fountain to find a few more people had congregated since my morning visit:

Trevi Fountain in the afternoon

The rest of the day was spent resting, eating and shopping.

Rome: My visit to the Eternal City (Day 1)

I visited Italy in April 2014 and like most people who visit Italy, kicked it off in Rome. The peak tourism period in Italy is during their summer (June - August).

The positives of visiting during mid-spring are the odds of fine weather are in your favour and there are less crowds to deal with. You may also find hotel prices are cheaper during this period. I must stress though - ensure your visit in Rome is not during the Easter period as there is a large influx of pilgrims for the events held at Vatican City and throughout Rome.

Brisbane to Rome. Three flights. 32 hours later. I arrived at about 11am feeling a bit jet lagged.

After catching the train into central Rome and checking into accommodation, it was already the afternoon. The first sight on my list was the Vatican City.

Vatican City
I had arranged an afternoon tour through Green Line Tours, they do have some terrible reviews. Truth be told this tour was satisfactory. My main motivation for booking this tour was the skip the line benefit, as the line to get into the St Peter's Basilica is nearly as infamous as the disciple himself. If it hadn't been for that, I would have foregone the tour and done my own thing.

The tour does offer a bus transport from their office (which is two streets down from Roma Termini), but wanting to do a test run of the subway system, I caught the nearby Metro subway from my accommodation to 'Ottaviano'. It is only a short walk from there.

Going back to the quality of the tour - the guide was informative and fluent in English. I would recommend this tour to anyone wanting a basic tour and guide of the history and also for the skip the line inclusion. Without that, I would have been waiting at least an hour before gaining entry.

Looking at some of the reviews on Trip Advisor, most of them don't relate to the specific tour of the Vatican or complain about rude counter staff when wanting to book a tour for that very day off the cuff. Take from that what you will.

After the tour the guide expects you to get back onto the bus to be transported back to where you were picked up from. I declined the offer and took the opportunity to wander around St. Peter's Square (Piazza San Pietro).

Saint Peter's Square in the late afternoon. The seating is for the Good Friday festivities occurring in a few days

Trastevere
From St. Peter's Square I went on foot to Trastevere - taking the scenic route by walking along the footpath of the Tiber River. The leisurely walk took about forty minutes before reaching Sisto Bridge (Ponte Sisto) just outside of Piazza Trilussa.

Trastevere is a suburb just across the Tiber River from central Rome. It has a long history dating as far back as approximately 750B.C and had fallen into a dilapidated state but has recently enjoyed a period of gentrification. It is contains narrow cobbled streets and is host to a large amount of restaurants and pubs, mostly frequented by locals. And as they say, when in Rome...

Across the Tiber River. Ponte Sisto to the right.

Any review or explanation I could give would not do it justice, but I would glowingly recommend visiting this hidden gem of Rome if only for the food, culture and atmosphere.

For Christians and history buffs alike, Bascilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere is an appealing choice. It is one of the oldest churches in Rome and is debated to be one of the first to openly practice mass. If that doesn't appeal to you, the people watching enthusiasts will enjoy the courtyard outside. Beware though, the PDA between some couples can be quite alarming.

I had dinner at Sette Oche. The ravioli and gnocchi dishes I tried were unlike anything I have tasted before. After completing my trip in Italy several weeks later, and eating many a pasta dish - I consider the pasta at Sette Oche the best I tasted.

Tip: Know this about Italians: they eat dinner late. Most restaurants do not open until about 8pm. Embrace it. It is a sure fine way to distinguish between an authentic Italian restaurant and a tourist trap which will open much earlier to cater to the western tourists.

There are buses and a main station from Trastevere (goes straight to Roma Termini) or a taxi is an option. My accommodation was near Roma Termini and I had always planned to walk back to my accommodation so I didn't research the bus network in Rome.

Courtyard outside Bascilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere

Rome is meant to be seen on foot and walking at night only increases viewing pleasure. The main streets are well lit as are the monuments. Along the way I walked past some of the Roman Forum ruins and the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II.

Rome is relatively safe to walk at night, it is always preferable to travel in a group where possible but the main crime tourists get exposed to is pickpocketing. I never experienced any issues but always apply a common sense approach.

Los Angeles: where to stay and getting around

When I first started planning my visit to LA I was surprised at how large (geographically speaking) it really is. A lot of the sites of interest (Hollywood Blvd; Warner Bros Studios; Universal Studios; Santa Monica Pier; Venice Beach and of course...Disneyland) are quite well spread out from one another.

Not wanting to spend a small fortune on taxis, the only solution I found was to stay at accommodation nearby the main public transport hub for LA - Union Station. Most importantly, every train or bus in LA that is going somewhere you want to go will stop at Union Station.

Accommodation:
There are a lot of accommodation options nearby Union Station. I stayed at Metro Plaza Hotel, it is a budget hotel and it satisfied my requirements but it may not be for everyone.

If you are going to stay nearby Union Street, check out Olvera Street, it's oozing with amazing Mexican restaurants and shops - you will feel like you've been to Mexico.
There is a direct bus running from LAX (Los Angeles International Airport) to Union Station.

Getting around:
There are three train services at Union Station:

• Metro Rail (urban train/subway line for LA)
• Metrolink (suburban and regional train line to LA/California)
• Amtrak (regional and national train line)

Please do not get Metro Rail and Metrolink confused - because if you take the latter by mistake chances are you'll be going on a long scenic route in the opposite direction from your intended destination.

In addition to train services, a number of bus lines operated by Metro (same company as Metro Rail) also run services from Union Station.

• Hollywood Blvd: Metro Rail - Red Line - 'Union Station' to 'Hollywood/Vine'
• Universal Studios: Metro Rail - Red Line - 'Union Station' to 'Universal City Studio City'
• Santa Monica Beach/Venice Beach - Metro (bus) - Metro Rapid Service route 704 - 'Union Station' to '2nd St/Santa Monica Blvd'
• Disneyland - Amtrak - 'Pacific Surfliner' - 'Union Station' to 'Anaheim' - then catch the bus from Anaheim train station to Disneyland (you can opt for the Metrolink line - but the Amtrak was more convenient to my schedule when I visited).

p.s. I did cheat and caught a taxi from Hollywood Blvd to Warner Bros Studio - but I was running a tad late and going to the Conan O'Brien show so didn't want to leave anything up to chance!