Tips for visiting Naples:
One: I used Naples as a base for visiting nearby Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. If you want to, and if you have the time (and budget) to do so - I recommend staying at some of the wonderful villages around the Amalfi Coast.
Two: I only dedicated four days to Naples, if I had my time over I'd extend it one more day to allow a visit to Capri.
Accommodation:
Naples is a city of contrast. Near Toledo and towards the wharf, Naples is a somewhat clean and modern city with luxurious accommodation options. Walking back towards central Naples and it is almost as if you can cut a line across town and enter the dirty, rustic and rough Naples.
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| Our accommodation. The door within the door. |
It's all a matter of personal choice. But if you were contemplating visiting Naples in the first place, then your heart should be leaning towards the rough and authentic Naples that it is known and loved for.
I utilised airbnb.com and stayed within the heart of 'Spaccanapoli', famous for its markets, restaurants and cafes.
If you intend to stay in this part of town, taxis will take you most of the way from Napoli Centrale train station for about 10-15 euro. I preferred walking from the train station, which took about forty minutes to get to Spaccanapoli (Googlemaps told me twenty minutes, I guess they don't take into account carrying 20kg of luggage whilst walking).
Do not be disheartened, the view along the way is far from boring and there is always something tasty to eat if feeling famished.
Neapolitan Pizza:
The most important thing to remember about pizza in Naples is that it is a serious, serious thing. A lot of pizzerias only recognise two toppings: Marinara and Margherita.
Whilst walking around Naples, you may see the following sign fixed to some pizzerias:
Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana or True Neapolitan Pizza Association, commonly known as pizza Nazis.
To receive this certification, pizzas have to have certain ingredients (buffalo mozzarella for one) and cooked to certain ways (i.e. no rolling pin and specific temperatures).
Definitely try one of these certified pizzerias, but don't limit yourself to them. Some of the best pizzerias in Naples are not certified.
If you care for more on the subject, I found the following article an interesting read.
Recommended Pizzerias:
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| Margherita Pizza from Gino's |
Gino's Sorbillo - does a great Margherita plus various other toppings as well. A popular haunt for locals and was also one of the most recommended by everyone I came across.
Pizzeria I Decumani - just a few stores down from Gino's, great variety of pizzas and nice restaurant to sit and dine (which is not always a given in Naples).
Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba - the world's first pizzeria. I don't know if this fact has been forgotten, because it wasn't crowded as I expected it would be. Fantastic pizza, no sitting room. Grab you pizza and find a courtyard nearby.
Pizzeria Brandi - where the Margherita was born. The pizza is good. The place is crowded. But definitely worth the novelty value.
Ristorante Alba - a bit out of the way and more upmarket. Pizzas use dairy mozzarella and are fantastic. They also run pizza making classes.
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele - the king of the Margherita and Marinara pizza. Which is all they make. Expect greatness.
Naples' sweet bitter secret:
Now pay attention, because this is a grand assertion I am about to make. I travelled through nine cities during my tour of Italy and drunk my weight in coffee in each and every single one. The best coffee I tasted in all of Italy was in Naples. The best pastries I ate in Italy was in Naples. And it was all from one cafe.
Gran Caffe' Ciorfito Sas is located in Spaccanapoli and has some of the most amazing pastries you could ever think to eat in your lifetime. Did I also mention the coffee is pretty good too?
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